We crossed the border in 2 hours largely because we managed to talk our way through the diplomatic plates only channel and met our escort Ali who took care of our paperwork. We then headed onto Sabratha a magnificent Roman city right on the shore of the med. The theatre - largely rebuilt by the Italians is stunning set against the blue sea and sky. Next we drove into Tripoli at rush hour, which was the single most scary driving experience we have ever had. The drivers here are fast and reckless, they almost seem keen to die. Road markings are ignored, traffic lights are merely guides and pavements are designed for skipping to the front of a queue. When we had parked we met another Brit motor home - David - driving to India via Pakistan and Afghanistan (now there's an idea) who told us to always arrive and depart late at night.

Next day we walked around Tripoli to find the souks such a pleasure to be in. Shop keepers chat but never hard sell, people cone to talk to you out of the blue and you can pick an item up in a shop and put it down again without anyone giving you a special nice price, instead giving you free samples of cakes and free gifts when you did buy something. We bumped into a shop keeper we had met earlier in a Restaurant who then acted as our translator to help order a salad. Libyans have to be the nicest people we have ever met. We even had a man climb in our van today when we were having a cup of tea and invite us 1000kms south to stay at his home! While he was with us a 8 year old girl came in and joined us, sat with us shook our hands told us her name Saya -apparently it means beautiful day - and then left. Oh and did I mention 157 litres of diesel cost £12.50